How to make the most of your time in Paris

It’s a relatively new kid on the block, but this neighbourhood bakery’s a standout. The breads are superb, from chestnut honey-laced loaves to the nutty miche muesli, while the counter’s stacked with pastries, from crisp, buttery palmiers to sticky cinnamon buns. Its chocolate-marbled babka is possibly the best in Paris; grab a wedge to take away, or perch on the bench out front.

Hip Parisians flock to this sweetly scuffed Saint-Denis address, which has kept its original cherry-red banquettes and curving neon signage. It’s a crowded, convivial spot for a beer or a nightcap, with a handful of pavement tables under the red-and-cream awning. If you’re peckish, a short, inviting menu riffs on brasserie classics, from an oozy croque monsieur to salads, steaks and snails.

Dating from 1866, this imposing, glass-and-iron market hall is ideal for a morning stroll. Follow your nose to its artisan cheese stalls, then swing by Nos Jours Heureux for flaky croissants and a box of pastel-hued macarons. Regulars swear by the Portuguese deli and snack bar; if it’s too early for octopus and salt cod, the pastéis de nata are first-class and the coffee reliably strong.

This Canal St Martin address has a sleekly space-age vibe, with a curving plywood cocoon wrapped around its circular bar. The cocktail list is restlessly inventive, often riffing on unusual ingredients (tonka bean-infused vermouth, say, or fragrant kaffir lime). There’s a polished dinner menu, but the snacks are equally accomplished; don’t even try to resist the cloud-like chorizo gougères.

You – and your beard – are in the safest of hands at Grizzly’s original outpost. It’s like a secret portal to Brooklyn in the heart of the Marais, with its tin tiles, tattooed clientele and retro, red-leather barber’s chairs. Its services run from haircuts to beard trims, via traditional wet shaves. In need of some serious TLC? Book the ‘Gentleman Grizzly’, complete with cosseting hot towels.  

The decor may be scruffy and the music loud, but the food here is sublime. Squeeze in amid the cramped, lively tables, then see what’s chalked up on the menu. From marbled slices of saucisse sèche to cod with salsa verde, its carefully-sourced small plates always hit the mark. An epic list of natural wines fuels the night-owl crowd; the last bookings are at 11pm, and it closes at half-one. 

Back when the city’s famous food market, Les Halles, was just around the corner, this cobbled street was known for its oysters. These days, it still draws a foodie crowd, with cafés, bakeries, kitchenware shops and first-class fromageries. Check out the historic l’Escargot Montorgueil, guarded by a gilded snail, then pay your respects at Stohrer. Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest pâtisserie in Paris.  

Two minutes’ walk from the hotel, this Italian newcomer is an elegant spot for supper. Retro orange chairs add a touch of warmth to its pared-back dining room, while every dish has earned its place on the strikingly short menu. The dishes evolve with the seasons, but look out for tried-and-tested hits: the silky Apulian burrata, say, or generous lobster spaghettini.