Explore Paris safely this summer

Forget queues snaking around the pyramid. If you’ve ever dreamed of exploring the Louvre’s 300 rooms of paintings, sculptures and antiquities, now’s the time. Visitor numbers are limited with allocated time slots; it’s best to book online, though some same-day tickets may be available at the museum. Don’t forget to wear a mask – a small inconvenience for a chance to gaze at the Mona Lisa’s smile without raised smartphones ruining your line of sight.

At the southern tip of the Bois de Boulogne’s leafy expanse, these glorious greenhouses grow much of the city’s municipal plants. Social-distancing and mask-wearing rules apply, but the off-the-beaten-path location makes it a pleasure to wander through the elegant glass structures and the quiet, well-tended formal gardens. The central building is the most impressive, with its luxuriant collection of palm trees, tropical flowers and papyrus plants.

If you’ve been craving a shopping fix, this iconic Left Bank address is packed with Parisian must-haves. After a thorough clean, the department store has reopened with all the safety precautions you’d expect, including hand-sanitiser stations, protective screens, and regular cleaning of changing rooms and payment points. Once you’ve raided the summer sales (15 July–11 August), pack a picnic from La Grande Épicerie’s tempting food hall – the banks of the Seine are just a 15-minute stroll away.

These palm-dotted, easy-to-reach gardens have something of a cult following. Locals love it for its picnic-friendly lawns, pétanque pitches and metal chairs just made for soaking up the sun. Groups of more than 10 aren’t currently allowed but, happily, the park’s ponies are still on standby for rides most days during school holidays. Expect under-helmet hair nets, mask-protected staff and delighted little ones.

This arthouse cinema in the sleepy 14th arrondissement has handed over its boho conservatory and garden to talent incubator Fulgurances. It’s an airy, light-filled space with plenty of room between tables. At the helm until November 2020, Iran-born Minou Sabahi is the first resident chef. Order small plates inspired by her extensive travels: pistachio-flecked sardines, say, or meringue dressed with carrots and cardamom. Book ahead.

Queuing for ice cream is a summer pastime for Parisians – even in these socially distanced times. Bachir kept locals stocked in home-delivered treats during lockdown; now, a stone’s throw from the Centre Pompidou, its red-and-white awning provides welcome shade for patient punters. The pistachio-crusted, Lebanon-inspired scoops are worth the wait: sample rose or orange-flower flavours, or opt for seasonal fruit such as apricot or blackberry.

Usually crowded with tourists, the neighbourhood of Montmartre has gone back to its quaint village roots – at least for a little while. If you’re not quite ready to bust out your own easel on the Place du Tertre, take a stroll around the tranquil cobbled lanes, looking out for the two surviving windmills. There’s no better time for a selfie in front of La Maison Rose. The charming pink restaurant is as popular with influencers now as it once was with famous writers and artists.

60 metres above ground, this open-air rooftop bar is arguably the most coveted sundowner spot in town. Take your pick from intimate tables, sociable sofas or laid-back bean bags on the lawn. The drinks menu runs from spritzes to natural wines and glasses of champagne. Bar snacks are equally enticing – think oysters, terrines and charcuterie platters. It’s best to drop by early: access is limited to 100 guests at a time, and you’ll need to wear a mask to access and move around the venue.

Cheap, trad and cheerful, the bouillon – an eatery serving old-school, no-frills fare – has had something of a renaissance of late. Top of the class is Bouillon Pigalle (no prizes for guessing its location), a classic of the genre in a lofty space dressed with red banquettes and reassuringly spaced tables. The menu (cod brandade, duck confit, peach melba) is equally comforting. If you’d rather eat out, the set takeaway lunch is a steal at €10 for three courses.