Aix-en-Provence holidays

In the steps of Cezanne

This is a walking route through the town that takes you to places of interest relating to Cezanne, from the house of his birth to the cemetery where he is buried. Pick up a free map in the Tourist office, then just follow the brass markers in the pavement, they’re marked with a large C.

There are over 30 points along the route, taking you past all the main sights so you can discover the town at the same time. The route takes around three hours, at a leisurely stroll and allowing for refreshment breaks.

If you’d prefer more background and a more personalised visit, the Tourist Office organises a guided tour from April to October.

Cours Mirabeau

Known as the ‘Champs-Elysées of the South’, this elegant boulevard is the place to hang out and be seen in Aix. Find yourself a seat en terrasse, order yourself a pastis or a demi and watch the world go by. The double row of plane trees will provide the shade and the passers by the entertainment.

One of the most famous cafés along the quarter-mile-long promenade is Les Deux Garçons, once a hangout of Cezanne and fellow-Aixois, Emile Zola. Take a break from sightseeing and try a plateau de coquillages (seafood platter) in the brasserie, washed down with a local white or rosé.

Granet Museum

This imposing building was previously an priory belonging to the Knights of Malta. It is now home to the Granet Museum, one of the largest art collections in Provence with nearly 12,000 paintings and art works.

As you would expect in his home town, there is a room devoted to Cezanne, though there are not as many of his works displayed as you would expect.

There is an impressive sculpture gallery featuring works by Trupheme and the 19th century sculptors Ramus and Ferrat, who worked locally.

The museum is shut on Mondays and has non-standard opening times, so check before visiting.

St Sauveur Cathedral

Said to be built on the site of an ancient temple to Apollo, this unique cathedral has had many additions over the years. The façade is a mishmash of different architectural periods Romanesque, Roman and Gothic. This continues into the interior where there are three naves, one Romanesque, one Baroque and one Gothic.

Though quite small as cathedrals go, there are some fine paintings and ornately decorated pillars around the central basin of the baptistery. There is also a viewing hole in the floor so you can see the Roman ruins underneath.

The green and gold organ, restored in 1972, is also pretty spectacular and is a listed historical monument.

The fountains of Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence has always been associated with water, the town was built by the Romans on a thermal spring and was originally called Aquae Sextiae, which later became Aix. This connection with water can be seen in the number of fountains everywhere, it’s one of the first things that you notice.

Every square and roundabout has a fountain, some grand and ornate, some more modest, and even a few that are completely covered in moss.

On the Cours Mirabeau alone you’ll find 4, the most impressive is definitely the monumental Fontaine de la Rotonde, topped with three statues representing Justice, Agriculture and Art. The oldest on the Cours is the Hot Water fountain, fed by the thermal spring and popularly known as the mossy fountain.