Concierge tips: where to eat and shop on the Left Bank

Once a 1930s telephone exchange, this chic hotel has been artfully converted, making the most of its ocean-liner curves and enormous windows. As a Left Bank pied-à-terre, it takes some beating – especially with concierge Nicolas’s advice for a breezy stay. After a day’s sightseeing, retreat to the soothing third-floor spa, or sip a precision-mixed martini on the jungly ground-floor patio.

The fashion crowd’s on first-name terms with Victoire de Villiers’ handbags, from the chic, circular Kasimir to the pyramid-shaped Cleo. The pared-back lines and geometric shapes are inspired by modern art, while the quality’s impeccable: the whole range is made in France. This flagship store is equally stylish, with its pastel-painted walls, playful displays and occasional limited editions.  

In a city of world-class fromageries, this is one of the standouts. Small and discreet from the outside, it’s stocked with some of France’s finest cheeses, from ash-layered morbier to herb-marinated goat’s cheeses. If in doubt, go for the superb walnut brie, or a hunk of the aged mimolette. Staff are friendly and full of advice – and will vacuum-pack pungent take-home purchases.

This award-winning chocolatier is fanatical about cocoa beans, showcased in his signature ‘grands crus’ selection box. The bars spiked with salted caramel have a cult following. Stock up on tins of truffles or chocolate pearls: they make for an ideal present. The pâtisserie counter’s equally enticing, with its stellar pear tarts, handsome monts-blancs and chocolate ganache-filled macarons.

Take your time at this neighbourhood bookstore, set up by the dashing Olivier Gallais. Staff picks come with heartfelt, handwritten recommendations, while local authors drop by for low-key book signings. It’s hip enough to have an Instagram account, but also formidably well-stocked, whether you’re honing your French with a graphic novel or looking for a classic read.

Clued-up locals head to this neighbourhood bistro for cosy dinners inspired by the Basque Country. Waiters joke with regulars in the narrow dining room, whose tiled floor and red banquettes have a sweetly old-school vibe. Dishes are simply plated, but utterly self-assured; chef-patron Thierry Dufroux used to work for Alain Ducasse. Just save room for dessert: the chocolate soufflé is superb.