What’s on in Marseille
Marseille, France, is stylish, proud, traditional and multicultural. Sip pastis on the café-lined Vieux Port, wander the revamped Panier district where Greeks settled in 600BC, and dine on bouillabaisse (fish soup). Scramble over the calanques (cliffs), cool off in the Mistral breeze on a boat to Marseille's Île d'If, and don’t miss the nightlife in what some say is the cradle of French hip-hop.
Marseille at the top
Climb up to the domed basilica of Notre-Dame de la Garde, topped by a gilded Virgin known affectionately as the Bonne Mère (Good Mother), and admire the best view of the city. Stay on top of things with a visit to the hilly and recently renovated Panier district, where you can rummage for pottery, crafts and antiques. Or soak up the bohemian atmosphere in Cours Julien's hip cafés and art shops. Take a boat to Marseille's Île d'If and the island's medieval fortress (where Dumas' Count of Montecristo was held prisoner) and climb up to the panoramic viewing terrace for sea views onto Marseille.
Nothing fishy about that
From the Provençal “bolhabaissa”, meaning to boil then to reduce, bouillabaisse is a fish soup that takes itself very seriously. Restaurants compete for the "Véritable" label and there's a strict charter to which one must adhere at all times. Containing stock, different kinds of cooked fish and shellfish, as well as a secret blend of herbs and spices, the whole lot is mixed à table, then sprinkled with rouille, a fiery mix of bread crumbs, olive oil and chillies. The dish also appears in Roman mythology as the stuff Venus fed her husband to put him to sleep, leaving her free to frolic with other Gods. On the Vieux Port, the Miramar's bouillabaisse is hard to beat.
Scents, sights and flavours
Marseille is bliss for gift shopping. Bring back Provençal honey, little sachets of lavender or herbs and famous Marseille soaps available in dozens of colours and scents. For belle-maman (or yourself), a bed throw or tablecloth in a vibrant Provençal print will brighten up dull rooms back home, while for Christmas bring back santons figurines in traditional costumes. For all this and plenty more visit the Marché du Prado on the avenue of the same name (open mornings from Monday to Saturday).
Explore the lofty Calanques
Limestone skyscrapers sprouting over turquoise waters, it's hard to resist Marseille's cliffs, or calanques, which stretch over 20km between Callelongue and Port Pin. See if you can spot rare species like Gouffé grass in the nature reserve (careful, fire hazards mean it is interdit to the public in summer), then sprawl on one of the secluded beaches accessible by foot. You can either hire a private boat with a skipper to live out your Med fantasies, or hop on a Compagnie Icard Maritime boat, departing from the Vieux Port.
Marseille la nuit
With its heady mix of cultures, Marseille by night caters to a wide range of clubbers. Lovers of Disco, techno, house and world music head to Le Bazar, while electro fans gravitate to Le Cabaret Aléatoire de la Friche. La Maronaise meanwhile, firmly nestled in the folds of a creek, is only open in summer and offers serene views from its al fresco dance floor. Marseille gyrates to live hip hop at Le Balthazar, while jazz greats and unknowns alike jam at Le Pelle-Mêle.
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